Mini Romag generator from Magnetic Energy uses the principle of moving magnetic flow named “the magnetic current” for generating electrical power. According to Magnetic Energy this generator is able to produce 3.5 volts, 7A DC ( about 24 Watts ) of free electricity while its generate sufficient power to sustain itself…
This generator need to be started by an external motor during about 42 seconds at 2100 RPM. After this charging process, when the energy flow is established in the Romag generator, the motor can be removed and free electrical energy can be used.
This Romag generator is a new revolutionary concept which generates electrical energy without using the first flow of current generated by magnetism, it uses only the untapped natural resource of the magnetism…
HOW THE UNIT WORKS :
The here disclosed 3½ volt, 7 amperage magnet motor/generator must be charged up by driving the main shaft at 2100 RPM for 42 seconds. This charging process manifests as magnetic energy within the six coils of copper wire, the copper tube supporting these coils and the copper coated steel wires wrapped around the magnets. This charging is accomplished while the six coil connection wires, Part #22, are making contact and setting up their alternating magnetic poles. After the 42 second charging time one of these coil connection wires must be opened and this circuit again completed through an energy draw at what could be called 7 amps. See load Part #23. As current is drawn from the six coils, this draw sets up magnetic poles which are a response between the rotor magnets and the coils. This response then causes the main shaft to be rotated by the 12 permanent magnets as they attract and build a release field. Then the driver unit (hand crank) is disconnected allowing the unit to rotate with the load being the activating driving force.
The fields of the magnets must be maintained during their spin movement. These magnetic fields which are encapsulated are achieved by the wiring system. The attract/release of the magnets is a function of several factors. First, the magnets attract field between north and south is completed by taking a crossing path of attract (top of one row to bottom of next, etc.). This action has the effect of fields blending into fields, and a hold-back attract does not happen. Each time a magnet set passes a coil an interchange of like energy between the coils around the magnets and the generating coils sets-up neutral polarities which are ‘release fields’ and prevents a hold-back attract.
One important magnetic assembly is the circuitry which allows this interchange of energy. This is a recycling of a stabilized magnetic/electro energy not electro/magnetic because the field of force is not a case of electrical input, an input that created the magnetic energy, but rather a build-up of magnetic energy which caused an energy thrust.
In further defining the workings of this unit it is important to understand that although electrical and magnetic (energy) work with similar attitudes, the manner in which they work sets-up a differing energy effect. One of these effects is that magnetic structures want to share their f1ow, compatible to the Universal Force, while electrical flow argues, (short circuits, sparks, etc.). Because of this fact the working responses (within the unit) take place, how they are needed, and when they are needed which results in a functioning unit. There is a continuous transmutation process taking place whereby magnetic energy continually generates an energy that manifests a measurable current.
Building the magnet rotors
Materials
- 12″ diameter mild steel disk, 1/4″ thick, qty 2 – 1″ x 2″ x 1/2″ N35 grade NdFeB magnets, qty 24 – cyanocrylate glue with accelerator – fiberglass cloth or mat, 2 square feet – 1/2 gallon polyester resin
Start with two steel disks, 12″ diameter. Each disk should have 4 1/2″ holes on a 4″ diameter circle(a touch larger to provide some clearance is nice) and a 2.75″ hole in the center. You can build a rotating table and do a pretty neat job cutting these out with an oxy-acetaline cutting torch, but we usually have ours cut out by a fabrication shop. A CNC laser cutter, plasma cutter, or water jet cutter will do a very nice job. If you have it done, you might have them cut all the holes for you – it saves a lot of time and assures that things are accurate. Otherwise, if you decide to machine your own rotors, the first step is to cut a 2.75″ hole in the center of both rotors. Use a high quality bi-metal hole saw and a drill press for this. The drill press needs to be run very slowly and you need to use lots of oil. Easiest is to clamp both rotors together and cut both at the same time. Save the scraps from the center, we can use one of those later. Next, keeping both disks clamped together, drill out the 4 .5″ diameter holes equally spaced around a 4″ diameter circle. The easiest way to do this is to put the wheel hub on the rotors and clamp it there, and drill right through the holes on the wheel hub. This saves a lot of layout and assures accuracy. One of the disks needs 4 more holes 7/16″ dia (also spaced around the same 4″ diameter and located between the .5″ diameter holes we just finished) which we’ll tap 1/2″ – 13 for jacking screws to aid in the assembly/disassembly of the alternator. Again – we usually have this done at a fabrication shop – when they cutout the disks for us it’s easy for them to use the same CNC machine to make all the holes.
Pictured above we’re tapping the 4 smaller holes 1/2″ – 13. It’s important to use lots of oil (or tapping fluid) when running the tap in. Try to keep the tap as straight as possible. Once it starts to cut threads, turn it just till things start getting tight, then back up a bit and ‘break the chip’. Continue this untill the tap goes all the way in and spins freely. Never force the tap in if things get too tight – always back it up, break the chip and then go foward again.
Use a countersink to chamfer the edges of the 1/2″ diameter holes. This makes things assemble more easily and helps protect the threads on the studs that hold the alternator together. Once this is done, all the ‘metal work’ is finished for our rotors. Both rotors are oily (finger prints and oil from drilling and tapping) so we need to clean the carefully with some kind of solvent. We usually use laquer thinner. After that – try to keep grease off them, handle them with clean hands. You’re about to start putting magnets on them, so this is a good time to clean the work area. Metal chips from the drill press and grinder should be cleaned up, or you should move the work to a new cleaner environment.
The steel disks don’t always come out perfectly flat. I expect some sheets of steel get bent in handling by forklifts and such and when the disks get cutout sometimes we find them slightly warped. Check for this with a straight edge. Flatening them can be done but it’s tricky. We usually locate the dimension in which it’s warped and we put our magnets on the most convex surface. (the surface facing up towards the straight edge in the picture is the surface we’d put the magnets on)
Put the magnet template down on one of the steel disks and line the holes up.
Place the other steel disk down on top of that, with the holes line up and pin the sandwich together with two 1/2″ drill bits (or wooden dowels or bolts or whatever).
Looking from the side you can see the ‘gaps’ in the template where the magnets will fit. Pick one gap and use a permanant marker to mark both sides of the gap. This is where we’ll place the first magnet on each disk.
(drilling into the top magnet rotor)
(drilling into the bottom magnet rotor)
Use a small drill bit (3/16″ is a nice size) and drill a divit (a dent – not a hole, don’t drill through) into both disks between the marks we made. These will be on the outsides of the magnet rotors and will serve as ‘indexing marks’ so that when we assemble the machine we’ll know how to line up the two rotors. Alignment of the rotors is critical in the operation of this alternator, they must always go together the same way with alternating magnetic poles facing one another. Once we’ve done all this we can take the top rotor back off the stack and put it aside in a safe place (away from the bottom rotor because were about to play with magnets).
For this alternator we require qty 24 Grade 35 NdFeB magnets 1″ x 2″ x 1/2″ thick. These are available from many vendors, they usually come either epoxy coated or Nickel plated, either way is fine. These are very powerful magnets and need to be treated with extreme focus and caution! Two coming together on your finger could hurt very badly and leave blisters easily. Once we assemble these on the rotors we have some very powerful/dangerous magnetic assemblies. Two finished magnet rotors coming together on your fingers could easily break them! Build one magnet rotor at a time. When it’s finished- put it in a safe place. When building these be sure that all ferrous (anything containing iron which includes steel tools, wrenches, knives scissors etc) are away from the work area. Only handle one magnet at a time and always grip them firmly. If a magent flys onto a piece of steel or into another magnet at high velocity, it may break and send shards flying! Handle one at a time, handle them with a firm grip. Store them in a safe place away from kids and folks who don’t realize what they might be getting into. Keep them away from electronics/video tapes and other forms of magnetic storage medium. These magnets are perfectly safe when handled properly, but most folks are not familiar with the dangers and there can be surprises.
The magnets are so strong they can be tricky to seperate off the stack. The best way is to place the stack on a wooden workbench and hold the stack firmly. Then grasp one magnet firmly with the other hand and slide it off. (you’ll not be able to just pull them apart, you have to ’shear’ them apart)
Now we can place the first magnet on the bottom magnet rotor. The template is pinned to it and made of wood or Aluminum so it won’t move. But the magnet is strongly attracted to the steel disk so we need to hold that down with one hand. While firmly gripping the magnet in the other hand, bring it towards the edge of the rotor and ’slide’ it into the slot. (don’t just try to put it down on – it will pull out of your hand and hit the rotor hard – possibly breaking the magnet!)
The magnets need to be spaced around the disk with alternating poles facing up. All magnets have two poles, a North and a South. Opposite poles (North and South) attract one another, like poles repel. It doesn’t matter how we put the first magnet down so long as things alternate from there. The safe way to place the rest of the magnets is as follows: Hold the magnet rotor down firmly to the work bench with one hand which should be placed over the magnet that’s next to the one you’re about to place. Then, holding the next magnet firmly, bring it over your hand which is holding down the rotor. If the bottom of the magnet in your hand is repelling the one on the rotor, then slide it into the slot carefully in it’s current position. (Because we know that if the bottom of the one in your hand is repelling the top of the one on the rotor then we have like poles facing each other, so the one in your hand has the opposite pole facing up as the one on the magnet rotor)
Once all the magnets are placed on the first rotor you can remove the pins and pry the template off. Do this carefully so the magnets don’t slide around.
Run a bead of thin viscosity cyanocrylate glue (Super Glue) down both sides of each magnet. Large bottles (2oz usually) are available at most hobby stores. It’s also handy to have ‘accelerator’ which will force the glue to harden immediately. The accelerator usually comes in a small spray bottle. We don’t rely on this glue to hold the magnets down forever, it’s a temporary means to keep things in place till we finish the casting. If cyanocrylate glue is not available then other glues should also work fine. Epoxy would probably be fine it just takes longer to dry.
I expect you could skip this part all together, but I believe it offers some insurance that our magnets will never fly out. Also – if the resin cracks this will keep things together for us. Take a roll of fiberglass drywall tape (this stuff is sticky on one side) and cut the roll with a razor knife so that you can peel off a strip of the tape about 1/2″ wide.
Wrap the tape around the magnets several times. Be sure that none of the tape sticks up above the top of the magnets.
Now that the first magnet rotor is finished, drive a nail somewhere in a wall in a high/safe place and hang it there. It’s a somewhat dangerous thing and should be kept in a safe place.
Now to begin the second magnet rotor. Put the template on it so that the 4 holes line up and one of the slots lines up with the marks we made earlier. This assures us that the magnets we place will be facing each other when the rotors are assembled. The top of the first magnet on this rotor must be the opposite pole as the top of the first magnet we placed on the first rotor. In other words, the two surfaces facing one another must attract one another. Once you get the first magnet down, follow the same proceedure as you did with the first magnet rotor.
Check your work!
You can easily double check your work now. Find a small magnet and hold it in your hand (dont turn it over – hold it in the same position always for the testing). Each magnet rotor has one magnet (the 1st one we placed) between the marks we made. The test magnet should attract this magnet on one magnet rotor, and repel it on the other. Then we can go around each magnet rotor and the test magnet should attract one magnet, repel the next one, attract the next one etc. If you made a mistake, you need to knock loose the offending magnets, put the template back on and get them right. Once all the magnets are placed and the tape is wrapped around them it’s a good idea to clean the magnets and the rotors one more time with laquer thinner to make sure there’s no grease. This will help the resin stick to the magnets.
Cut out two rings from fiberglass mat, or fabric. They should be 12″ in diameter, with a 6.5″ diameter hole in the center.
Grease the mold everywhere (Except on the bottom – that’s not necessary). A good mold release is car wax, or Johnsons wood wax. We’ve also used shortening from the kitchen and axel grease (axel grease is kind of gross and messy but it works). Grease it really well especially the first time you use the mold. The first coat tends to soak into the wood but after several applications it gets better. The point here is to make the mold greasy so the resin won’t stick to it. Once all the parts are greased well then run a bead of caulk around the outside of the 12.5″ hole in the mold. Also run a thin bead around the outside of the 1/2″ thick 6.5″ diameter disk. If it’s not still there, stick the 1/4″ drill bit in the center hole, we’ll need this for alignment.
Drop one of the magnet rotors into the mold carefully. It fit nicely on the smaller 2.75″ disk in the center of the mold so that the magnet rotor is a good fit and about pefectly centered.
Put the 6.5″ diameter disk down. The drill bit will serve to center it on the disk. The side that we’ve run caulk around should face down and we need to press it down onto the magnet rotor. The caulk will assure that no resin can run under it.
We use polyester resin to cast the rotors. We get this stuff from almost any autoparts store. It’s best to buy it by the gallon (it takes about exactly one gallon to build this whole machine). It comes with hardener in small plastic tubes.
It’s nasty stuff. It smells bad, the fumes are toxic. Best to work outside or in a very well ventelated area. Use safety glasses (the hardener is especially dangerous if you get it in your eyes), rubber gloves, and a respirator.
It takes almost exactly 1 quart of resin to make 1 magnet rotor. (maybe a touch less) Usually a gallon of the resin comes with two tubes of hardener, each containing .77oz (22ml). When casting this stuff the resin tends to warm up and get hard much faster than it would in normal applications – especially if its warm outside and if the resin is warm to start with. We usually use about half the hardener that the instructions call for. This lets it harden more slowly – I believe it helps it to be stronger, shrink less and make things less likely to crack. There have been times when we’ve used half the tube for 1 quart (what the instructions call for) on warm days and the resin has become hard in 15 min or less! (it was hard before we could even pour it!) If it goes off too fast, there is also the risk of it catching fire. So be careful…
If you like, there are powders available to color the resin, or you can just use a little bit of acrylic enamel to give the resin a color. If you use enamel, I would use about 1 part paint to 50 parts resin.
Pour resin into the mold and over the tops of all the magnets. The mold needs to be level and it should be completely filled with resin.
Place the fiberglass ring over the top and work it in with a stick so it becomes saturated with resin. Work the air bubbles out as best you can.
Pour a bit more resin over the top and work that in. At this point it doesnt hurt to beat on the mold or vibrate it (with a vibrating sander or something) to work air bubbles out. Air bubbles won’t really hurt it, but they don’t look nice. We always get a few.
The lid also has a 1/4″ hole in the center. Place it down over the drill bit and on top of the magnet rotor. You can clamp it down with magnets, or bits of steel (wrenches etc..) because they’ll all stick to the magnets. C clamps are fine too but more work than necessary. Keep an eye on the resin that spills out of the mold. When it starts setting up clean the outside of the mold. Don’t take the lid off though untill you feel the resin is good and hard. In practice, depending on the tempurature and the amount of hardener we used I find this takes anywhere from 1/2 hour (which is scary fast – I expect cracks and shrinkage when it goes that fast) to 24 hours. It seems the slower the better with regard to shrinkage and cracking.
Once the resin is completely setup we can remove the lid from the mold. Usually (if we made the mold well and greased it well) the rotor will just fall out of the mold when we turn it over. If it doesn’t, tap it on the back with a hammer and it should. Sometimes things get tricky and we have to pry it out, or even take the mold apart but this shouldn’t happen if we did everything correctly. The wooden disk on the inside of the rotor should knock out easily with a hammer through the hole on the back side of the magnet rotor. The edges of the rotor will be rough. We can cut the excess resin off with side cutters – or remove it with a sander. A belt sander works real well, but be sure to wear a dust mask. Clean up all the burrs so that nothing sticks up beyond the surface of the magnets.
There we have a finished magnet rotor! Once one is finished – then repeat the process with the second one in the same mold. We actually use two molds (molds are easy to make) so that we can get all this done in one shot but if you’re not in a rush one at a time works fine.
The first Perendev magnetic motor was built by Mike Brady in 1969. It was not a very powerful motor due to the limited strength of magnets available at that time, but it proved the point that a magnetic motor could be used to generate electricity.Some people believe that building a magnetic motor is not possible because it violates the second law of thermodynamics but it is not so. The Perendev magnetic motor, basically, converts potential energy into kinetic energy.
Today, Perendev is a company involved in research and development in the field of alternate energy. A Perendev magnetic generator can cut down your electricity bill significantly.
The device has two or more magnets with similar North-South Polarity. This arrangement causes the wheels to spin around indefinitely. The motor does not require any external energy to be set in motion, as the natural properties of attraction and repulsion of magnets causes spinning. The magnets lose their strength over time.
Perendev magnetic motor sealed off with steel. This in turn strengthens the magnetic field at the top and the bottom, wherein its left open. Steel is used as the sealing material because it causes the magnetic flux to travel faster than it does in the air. The external magnet is in a fixed position and a shaft is placed such that it crosses the interior and attaches to the exterior.
Perendev magnetic motor comes in 2 models namely, 100 KW and 300 KW. The former is suitable to power small spaces, such as, homes and offices, whereas the latter is ideal for larger spaces.
Perendev magnetic motors are not sold but only leased out to protect the technology they work on. The magnetic motors have a built-in Black Box by means of which the company can track the movement and whereabouts of the magnetic motor.
Magnetic Motor Perendev:
Magnetic motor perendev is an all-magnet motor. It was first built by Mike Brady in year 1969. The magnetic generator built initially was not powerful enough as there were no powerful magnets existing at that point in time. However, later Mike Brady was successful in building a magnetic motor perendev, which could generate electricity. Some people disagree with such magnetic generators, as these violate the second law of thermodynamics. The magnetic motor perendev converts potential energy into kinetic energy, which is further converted into electrical energy.
Perendev is a company dealing in developing alternate devices, which can be used to make electricity. The company’ goal is to change the way the world uses energy. It produces magnetic generators of two different capacities, 100 KW and 300 KW generators.
The magnetic motor contains two or more than two magnets with similar North-South polarity. The magnets have a specific arrangement on the wheels. The arrangement causes alternate attraction and repulsion, which causes the wheel to spin. Magnetic energy motor perendev does not require any external energy to spin the wheel, as the magnetic properties of magnets will continue to spin the wheel until magnetic strength lasts. It is sealed with steel, and hence, the magnetic field is very strong at the top and bottom where it’s kept open. Steel is preferred as sealing material because it facilitates the magnetic flux to travel faster in comparison to air. The external magnet is in a fixed position. The shaft is fixed in such a way that it crosses the interior and attaches to the exterior. The magnetic energy motor does not violate any law of thermodynamics and the device primary function is to convert potential energy into kinetic energy. If the magnetic strength (potential energy) of the magnets diminishes, the perendev magnet will stop working.
THE WEBSITE:www.phasemotorparts.com,CAN SUPPLY THE MOTORS MAGNETS FOR YOU.
August 11th, 2010 in
Motor Magnets | tags:
Motor Magnetic |
Comments Off
Every electric motor is different. Some work better at high speeds, others at low speeds. Some work better under heavy loads, while others are more efficient driving lightweight loads. Finding the right electric motor for your motorized project can be difficult. Some people find it easier to make their own. This is possible to do with no specialized parts and little training. Even the permanent magnets that make the motors run can be made at home with little effort.
Instructions
1．Set the grill up according to manufacturer’s instructions. Fill it up with charcoal and light it using the long lighter. Make sure that the bucket of water is nearby in case the metal needs to be rapidly cooled or a fire needs to be put out. Put on the safety goggles and leather gloves.
2..Place the metal on the grill over the hottest part of the charcoal using the tongs. Let the grill heat up as much as possible. Once it reaches its peak heat, light the torch and apply its flame evenly to the metal. Heat it with the torch for a few minutes. Turn off the flame on the torch when finished.
3.Pick up the hot metal with the tongs. Hold the neodymium magnet in one hand. Stroke the metal bar with it. Always stroke it in the same direction and lift the neodymium magnet well away from it once it reaches the end. Never move the magnet back and forth over the bar, this will ruin the magnetizing process. Keep stroking it as it cools to the ambient temperature . Once it has, it will be a powerful permanent magnet suitable for use in an electric motor.
motor magnets, motor permanent magnets, electric motor magnets, magnets assembled with magnets, rotor magnets, magnetic material, brushless motor magnets
August 1st, 2010 in
Motor Magnets | tags:
electric motors magnets |
Comments Off
Neodymium iron boron magnets, also known as rare earth magnet and neo magnets, offer the best value when comparing performance, size and cost. Neodymium iron boron magnets, normally called neo and rare earth magnets, are moderate in price and typically allow for dimensional reductions. Neo magnets or rare earth magnets have poor resistance to corrosion and should have a coating or plating applied. Consideration should be given to the grade of alloy when exposing Neodymium iron boron to temperatures above ambient room. Neo magnets have good resistance to external demagnetization fields because of its high Intrinsic Coercive Force. This resistance makes Neodymium iron boron magnets an excellent choice for electromechanical applications.
Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets Manufacturing Process
Fully dense Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets “neo magnets & rare earth magnets” are usually manufactured by a powdered metallurgical process. Micron size Neodymium and iron boron powder is produced in an inert gas atmosphere and then compacted in a rigid steel mold or in a rubber mold. The rubber mold is compacted on all sides by fluid and it is referred to as isostatic pressing. The steel molds will produce shapes similar to the final product, while the rubber mold will only create large blocks of Neodymium iron boron “commonly known as neo or rare earth” magnet alloy. The Neodymium iron boron alloys magnetic performance in both compacting methods is optimized by applying a magnetic field before or during the pressing operation. This applied field imparts a preferred direction of magnetization, or orientation to the Neodymium Iron Boron Magnet alloy. The alignment of particles results in an anisotropic alloy and vastly improves the residual induction and other magnetic characteristics of the finished rare earth magnet named Neodymium Iron Boron magnet which is also called “neo magnet”. After pressing, the neo “Neodymium Iron Boron” magnets are sintered and heat treated until they reach their fully dense condition. The die pressed neo rare earth magnets are ground to the final dimensions, but the brick magnets from the rubber mold method are usually squared on large grinders and then sliced to the final geometry. Isostaticly pressed alloy has higher magnetic properties than the die pressed material, but it may lack the uniformity. The choice of Neodymium iron boron “rare earth neo” magnet manufacturing method is usually application driven and is typically not a concern of the customer.
Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets Temperature Characteristics
Sintered Neodymium Iron Boron “neo rare earth” magnets are susceptible to demagnetization when exposed to elevated temperatures. There are many grades which can withstand high temperatures, but several factors will dictate the performance of the Neodymium Iron Boron magnet. One of the most pertinent variables is the geometry of the neo rare earth magnet or magnetic circuit. Neo rare earth magnets which are thin relative to their pole cross-section will demagnetize easier than neo magnets which are thick. Magnetic geometries utilizing backing plates, yokes, or return path structures will respond better to increased temperatures. The maximum recommended operating temperatures listed on the Neodymium iron boron magnet magnetic characteristics page does not take into account all geometry conditions. Please contact us for Neodymium magnets design assistance when elevated temperatures are involved in your application.
Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets Corrosion Characteristics
Neodymium Iron Boron, also called neo and rare earth magnets, are very susceptible to corrosion. A variety of coating and plating options are available to protect your neo magnet from the environment. The rapid oxidation of Neodymium magnets requires rigorous surface preparation before coating or plating. Most Neodymium Iron Boron magnet surface treatment facilities are not familiar with this type of magnet alloy and are not capable of successfully coating or plating it. Neodymium Iron Boron does not take plating like other metal alloys and it will corrode from the inside-out. Our team member will assist with the selection of best Neodymium Iron Boron, “rare earth neo” magnet surface treatment option for your application.
Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets Machining
Neodymium Iron Boron also called neo and rare earth magnets, material is very hard and brittle. On average, this rare earth magnet materials hardness is 58 Rc and conventional machine tools and cutters are not appropriate. The hardness combined with the powder metal grain/crystal structure inhibits the use of carbide tools. Diamond tooling, electrostatic discharge machines, and some abrasives are the conventional means of fabrication for neo rare earth magnet alloy. Another concern with machining is the volatility of the powder or dry grinding swarf. These particles can combust while machining or in swarf storage containers. Machining will also remove the “skin” of the Neodymium Iron Boron magnet alloy and make the material more susceptible to corrosion. Most magnet materials are machined in the un-magnetized state. Once the fabrication and cleaning operation are complete the magnet is then magnetized to saturation.
We are capable of fabricating simple or complex shapes from Neodymium Iron Boron magnet alloy. We stock a variety of standard and exotic Neodymium grades for production or prototype fabrication.
We can help determine if custom machining is required or if “pressed to size” geometry is possible. The determining factors are usually required lead-time, cost, and the alloy required.
Neodymium Iron Boron Magnets Magnetizing
Neodymium Iron Boron magnets, commonly known as neo magnet, are a rare earth magnet and require a large magnetizing field. The large magnetizing fields require special equipment and Neodymium magnets are not generally magnetized by customers. The anisotropic nature of sintered Neodymium magnets results in a single direction of magnetization. This direction must be observed when magnetizing and when integrating the magnet into the final magnetic assembly. Often times an indicator is used to identify a specific magnetic pole for the customer’s Neodymium iron boron magnet assembly process. This indicator can be a simple paint dot or a laser engraved mark.
The high field required for magnetizing Neodymium Iron Boron will often times restrict the design of the Neodymium magnet or Neodymium magnetic assembly. Many variables must be taken into account and we can assist with the design process.
The news.come from:http://www.phasemotorparts.com/
March 17th, 2010 in
Magnetic Assembly | tags:
Magnetic Assembly |
Comments Off
With an established reputation for precision motor parts manufacturing and assembly since year 2001,Phase Motion Control Ningbo LTD specialized in manufacturing and assembling customized complex and accurate components for application in automation,which includes:
1. Motor lamination and motor stack
2. Motor stators and motor coil windings
3. Rotors and magnetic assemblies
4. Motor shafts and other mechanical parts
5. Motor magnets
These customer-oriented products are maily widely used in following applications:
1. Synchromous servo motor
2. PM generator
3. Linear motor
4. Torque motor
5. Asynchromous motor
6. Magnetic sensor in automobile
7. Magnet with plastic injection for micro motor
8. Magnetic couplings in water pump
9. Magnetic assemblies in loud speaker
We excel at opportunities where we can contribute our technology and experience from the initial requirements of the customers through the validation with CAD and FEA tools,to the component part made and assembled,down to the definition of the tools,jigs and production cycles.It has already proved successfully that this kind of combination capability brings the maximum benefits to both customers and ourselves.
The company has been approved by the Quality Management System of ISO9001:2000 as “design and manufacturing magnetic parts and motor parts“.
January 20th, 2010 in
Uncategorized |
Comments Off
